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Cocktail Hound

A Review of St-Germain

09.13.2011

It’s difficult to visit a cocktail bar these days and not see the ubiquitous art-deco “torpedo” St-Germain bottle in all it’s pale green splendor. Looking like a Jules Verne sketch of a surface to air missile, the bottle is nothing short of splendid, and one can practically hear accordion music and buttery-smooth syllables of la langue maternelle de l’amour merely by gazing upon it.

The Art Deco Torpedo

Aside from the iconic bottle, the rest of the St-Germain “experience” is a case study in the new category of stupor-premium spirits: slick and well-executed marketing, a quaint backstory and associated photography of rural Frenchmen, teleported from the 1800s to gather rare flowers and transport them via bicyclette for your spirituous enjoyment, and that magical “right around twenty bucks” price point. Once one weeds through the marketing BS, essentially St-Germain is macerated elderflower in eau-de-vie, literally translated “water of life” and the wonderfully French way of describing what is the brandy-equivalent of grain alcohol. Throw in some sugar and the required “secret process” and you’re done. So far, we’ve waded through a lot of le fluff; does St-Germain live up to the hype? Well, kind of.

If your life has long been complete, save for a source of the light and crisp taste of elderflower, St-Germain is the answer to your prayers. It does deliver on its promises of fresh, subtle floral notes, but once the novelty wears off, you’re left with a fairly niche product that is easily overwhelmed by other spirits. This is further handicapped by a limited offering of cocktails from the manufacturer, most of which are old staples with a standard ingredient replaced with St-Germain. We sampled one of the few unique cocktails, the Vieux Mot, and while tasty, it was missing something on the finish that takes a cocktail from OK to exceptional. As you’ll see in the recipe, we tried Orange Bitters and a dash of Pernod, but I’m still not satisfied. Even reading the recipes it’s clear the marketing department invested more in cheeky comments than assembling some good, original drinks.

In the right hands, there’s potential for some nice spring/summer cocktails, with a good gin gaining a floral compliment from the St-Germain, but it seems of limited utility to the home mixologist, and in danger of becoming just another flavoring agent to be fortified with vodka to create the “Tini du Jour” in your average cocktail bar. Frankly, if you want something French and fruity, there are far more interesting possibilities with Chambord, Calvados, or Cointreau, and that’s just the letter “C”. That said, if you’ve got $20 burning a hole in your pocket and explored some of the more traditional fruit liqueurs, that funky bottle and a chance to “remix” some classic warm-weather cocktails might be worth the price of admission.

Cocktail Hound

Imbibe!

09.10.2011

David Wondrich’s Imbibe! traces the career and drinks of pre-prohibition bartender, and author of one of the first reference books on cocktails, Jerry Thomas. One need not know much about Jerry Thomas to enjoy the book, and the author provides a vivid description of this larger-than-life personality, and his swashbuckling around the US of the late 1800’s perfecting his craft. Wondrich also attempts to recreate and modernize The Bartender’s Guide, Thomas’ seminal collection of American cocktails, providing current measurements and equivalent ingredients where necessary, while staying as faithful to the originals as possible. He also frequently discusses historic bartending equipment, and its evolution or more recent equalivent.

While Thomas provides a cohesive theme to tie the book together, I read it more as a chronicle of pre-Prohibition drinking life in the US, at a time when the country was growing explosively and full of possibility, and as major cities like New York and San Francisco began to take their dominant roles as American cultural centers. The author uses a highly-readable informal tone, so don’t expect a dry history text.

The recipe section, a bit unwieldy on the Kindle version I read, provides an interactive window to the period, as well as some modern takes on old classics. Don’t expect flavored vodkas or bubble-gum cocktails here, most are robust traditional cocktails. There are also interesting “throwback” drinks that are rare today, like many of the punches (the predecessor to the cocktail) and egg-based drinks, something uncommon in today’s cocktail bar.

Recommended.

Cocktail Hound

The Invasion of “Stupor Premium”

09.08.2011

Cupcakes and vodka? Can we add “organic” or “trans-fat free” and make it a trendiness hat trick?

Perhaps the biggest trend to hit the spirits market in the last decade is the invasion of “Stupor-Premium” spirits, kicked off by marketing genius and importer of Jägermeister, Sydney Frank with his now-famous Grey Goose vodka. Mr. Frank saw an opening in the spirits world, which was dominated by spirits generally priced according to some innate characteristic. Aged, rare, or more complex spirits commanded a premium price, while mass-produced or unremarkable spirits sold as commodities. In most spirit categories, there were obvious premium brands. A no-name Massachusetts whiskey sold for well below the price of a 20 year old single malt Scotch, and cognacs, presumably the premium segment of brandies, were further stratified by the imposing-sounding Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac. In essence, more money bought you taste, rarity or some combination thereof.

Vodka did not have a premium category, since it is by its very nature a colorless and tasteless liquor, with any identifyable taste imparted by an adulteration of the spirit (through filtering, flavoring, etc.) Frank recognized a golden opportunity to create a premium brand through a marketing exercise, rather than any special technique or taste to the actual product, and hence Grey Goose was born and eventually sold to Bacardi for a purported $2B.

Now, Frank’s formula is being applied all over the liquor world, attempting to turn an otherwise unremarkable product into a premium one through marketing rather than the old standards of unique preparation or rarity. Walk through the vodka aisle of your local liquor store, and you’re sure to see a raft of products following his template, which seemingly includes the following:

  1. Make your product somewhere interesting, usually France. Grey Goose built their distillery in the cognac region, logistically due to a good supply of clean water, but likely of equal import, to impart the “premium” perception that comes with “Made in France”.
  2. Price the product in the $20-$40 sweet spot: expensive enough to seem “premium” but cheap enough to be an inconsequential luxury or splurge. Most can’t afford a $1500 cognac, but will gladly drop $30 on a vodka that marketing assures them is “just as ‘premium’” as the Louis XIII.
  3. Put the thing in a fancy, classy, or garish bottle, or attempt all three.
  4. Give the product a backstory with just the right combination of pastorality, ludicrosity, and unverifablosity (and also make up some scientific-sounding words in the process).
  5. Create a faux-rarity by claiming near-magical properties for the materials that make up your product.

At this point in the vodka arena, the next logical step for a product is one that is made on the moon from the tears of fairies, packaged in les poubelles rares from la France by midget leprechauns, with a portion of the proceeds allocated to their annual allotment of Lucky Charms.

While Grey Goose and the more successful brands rightfully deserve a chapter or two in every marketing text book, there’s a risk that they inflict their marketing-driven stupor across the spirits industry, placing form and flair several ranks above taste. They’ve already added a premium price to my old standby Stolichnaya (I only want vodka made from the rye, sweat, and shattered dreams of former Communists), and are now invading everything from liqueurs to rums.

Keep your fancy bottles and overblown backstories, and give me a tasty product at an appropriate price. I’ll even give you bonus points for an anti-premium name like Old Granddad, Wild Turkey, or Beefeater.

Cocktail Hound

Dethroning the King

09.07.2011

While not specifically about cocktails or the spirits industry, Dethroning the King is a compelling read nonetheless. The acquisition of Anheuser-Busch represented one of the largest hostile takeovers in decades, and probably would have been on the front pages of the popular press for months had there not been another series of “minor financial incidents” in late 2008.

Julie Macintosh vividly recounts the family and high-level corporate players on the Anheuser-Busch side as they are caught effectively by surprise, shocked that an upstart Brazilian company is banging on the door of what they thought was the world’s most powerful brewer. The book reads more like a thriller than a boring business book, and it’s a page turner that I couldn’t put down despite knowing the ultimate outcome of the story.

If you have any interest in stories of corporate intrigue that read like true crime, this book is a worthwhile read. Interestingly, the trend that brought Anheuser-Busch from what seemed like a family company into the arms of a corporate marauder are also affecting the spirits industry, and perhaps InBev is the prototype for tomorrow’s spirits giant (if we’re not already there with the small cabal of huge players).

Highly recommended.

Cocktail Hound

Terminate the Tini

09.04.2011

There are few greater cocktail-related disappointments than when I stroll into a promising looking bar, noting the well-chosen assortment of spirits and general vibe, only to be handed a “Martini List”. These were the bane of the last cocktail resurgence in the late 1990’s, and unfortunately seem to continue to lurk in many a bar and are regaining prominence as cocktails once again are in the spotlight.

The Pink Highlighter?

You’ve probably seen this type of list, invariably containing a littany of overpriced concoctions consisting of vodka and a cloying flavoring agent (schnapps, flavored vodka, chocolate syrup, etc), a ridiculous price, and a painfully cute name, like the infamous “Flirtini”. While I expect this type of nonsense in the dime-a-dozen global chains, many higher-end restaurants that claim quality cocktail bars engage in the Tini madness. Interestingly in the United States various government agencies are cracking down on beer companies for fruity, high-alcohol content drinks with goofy names, targeted towards the young. However apparently when you call it a martini, and charge $12 for one, it’s not only acceptable but trendy!

While I’ll never fault anyone for drinking what appeals to them, the trouble with Tinis is that in additional to diluting quality spirits, they also dilute a bartender’s skill, and overall attention paid to cocktails at a bar. It’s painfully easy to make a delicious “Tini du Jour” with the plethora of flavored vodkas now on the market, and their heavy flavoring has the nuances and subtleties of a Vegas bachelor party. Essentially, the Tinis necessitate little more than haphazardly pouring a couple or three ingredients in a shaker and sloshing them around, washing machine-like, before pouring into a fancy glass. When this methodology is applied to a more traditional cocktail, the results are usually less than stellar.

The rationale behind the Tini from the bar’s perspective is fairly obvious. Vodka is a colorless, tasteless sprit, effectively akin to industrial alcohol, and in fact, many of the “designer vodkas” actually start their life as bulk-purchased industrial alcohol that is imparted with some sort of flavoring agent. Since you’re using a flavorless base spirit, you can add something fruity like a liqueur, schnapps, or juice, and effectively have high-octane kool aid that requires no skill (and hence, minimal training) and minimal time to mix, and can command a premium price tag. The Tinis are the latest vapid Hollywood bimbo of the cocktail world; heavy on appearance, in-your-face-with-three-snaps-in-a-Z-formation on taste, and focused on looks rather than substance.

So with this in mind, I humbly request that bar owners, bartenders, and drinkers everywhere terminate the Tini. Try a traditional cocktail, or ask a world-weary looking bartender what his or her favorite cocktail is and sample the goods. Demand that the watery, abused train-wreck you’re served at a place calling itself a cocktail bar be remade properly, and leave the over-stimulated adult Kool Aid to the shelves of your local Quickie Mart.

Cocktail Hound

Last Call

09.01.2011

Daniel Okrent’s Last Call is a fabulous historical account of the rise of the temperance movement in the United States, culminating in the successful passage of the 18th Amendment to the US Constitution, prohibiting “the manufacture, sale, or transportation of intoxicating liquors”.

This book explores this largely forgotten segment of US history, and all the colorful characters, and political maneuverings surrounding the passage and eventual repeal of Prohibition. The cast of characters in the book ranges from religiously motivated “progressives”, gangsters and criminal enterprises, the Ku Klux Klan, to corrupt politicians and a raft of government officials supporting, decrying, or ignoring Prohibition. More than just a historical analysis, the author adds gentle commentary (usually highlighting prohibition’s flaws) without being overbearing or resorting to lecturing, and allows the reader to ruminate on the thousands of unintended consequences spawned by what started as a well-intentioned, grassroots movement.

Throughout the tales of vibrant characters the connecting theme seems to be the underlying thread of political manipulation, and the unwillingness of a large segment of the population to follow a law they considered “not applicable”, themes that are relevant today. The passage of Prohibition mobilized one of the first massive, organized, political movements in the US, just as its repeal brought together wealthy industrialists, civil libertarians, and those that just plain wanted a drink. In addition, it was amazing to read the efforts and antics associated with illegally (or in some cases, legally) skirting the law to bring a popular product to hungry consumers.

Highly Recommended.

Cocktail Hound

Getting Started

08.31.2011

Your "starter bar" need not look anything like this!

Getting started in cocktails may seem like a daunting prospect. Your average chain restaurant that may have four or five beers on tap, and a similar number of wines by the glass, likely has a dizzying array of liquors and associated bar accoutrements. Strange rituals abound, and you’ll be solemnly admonished to always do something by one source, then told to do the opposite by another equally credible source. Similarly, many books and websites suggest a “basic bar” that might contain a couple hundred dollars worth of spirits, an expensive proposition if you’re not sure this is a hobby you’re interested in continuing. If you’re unsure whether cocktails are a hobby worth pursuing, take a moment to read the Cocktail Hound Manifesto.

The Myth of the “Starter Bar”

You’ll find much of the advice here on Cocktail Hound suggests getting back to basics, and focusing on enjoying cocktails rather than fretting over technique, and getting started is no exception. Rather than scouring the web for the perfect “starter bar” list, and rushing to the nearest liquor store with cash in hand, identify one or a two cocktails that you enjoy to get you started. In my case, this was a single cocktail, the Manhattan. There’s no shame in starting your cocktail journey with a single drink, whether it’s something simple like a Cuba Libre, or a more complex drink. If I may offer a suggestion, I’d lean towards a more classic cocktail rather than a “mixed drink”, the former traditionally consisting of two or more liquors while the latter usually hides the spirit behind a mixer like juice or soda. If you’re concerned with the strength of drink (in terms of alcoholic content or taste) simply serve the cocktail “on the rocks” (over ice) rather than “neat” (straight up, without ice) and allow for some melting to dilute the spirits without altering their taste.

Selecting Spirits

Some of the easily made “classics” include the Martini, Manhattan, Old Fashioned, Tom Collins, Margarita, and the Sidecar. Try a few in your favorite bar, realizing that they may or may not be made with any particular care (the Sidecar is especially risky). Armed with a drink or two you’re interested in exploring further, find a recipe and build a shopping list. In the case of the classics mentioned above, most require no more than three or four ingredients and all have recipes here on Cocktail Hound. You’ll find more information about selecting spirits in our knowledge archive, along with some recommendations, but there’s no problem with starting with a mainstream brand that works for your budget, and is locally available. Once you start developing your tastes and technique, then you can experiment with different spirits.

Tools of the Trade

A Boston Shaker and strainer

Glassware, shakers, and other tools of the trade can seem intimidating, with hundreds of styles of glassware available, and dozens of variations of the standard cocktail glass (often referred to by the uninitiated as a “martini glass”). During your first foray into cocktails you need not obsess about glassware beyond buying a glass or two that appeals to you, should you be interested in aesthetics right off the bat. Personally, I’ll take a lovingly crafted cocktail in a plastic cup every time over a sloppily-made disaster in a beautiful glass.

Cocktail shakers also need not be mysterious, as their sole purpose is to cool and mix a drink by shaking it with ice. The most basic incarnation is commonly referred to as a “Boston Shaker”, and  consists of a metal glass with a wide mouth that fits over a standard pint glass, and is usually combined with a strainer that fits over the glass and prevents any ice from entering the cocktail glass when it is emptied. A traditional shaker is also a simple affair, with a metal vessel, lid with strainer, and cap, essentially combining the three parts of the Boston Shaker into a single unit. You’ll likely end up with several so don’t worry that the first shaker you buy will be your last, and you can usually find a range of shakers at your local liquor store, or at a department or glassware store. I personally prefer the standard shaker, although the Boston Shaker is easier to clean and less likely to have parts get stuck together (and is usually less expensive since you only need the metal vessel and strainer, assuming you already have a pint glass on hand). A traditional shaker is easier to handle one-handed, and for many is what they picture when they think “cocktail night”.

Clean ice can be one of the most important ingredients of your cocktails

Perhaps the most important and easily overlooked tool is plain and simple ice. If you have an ice maker in your freezer, I highly recommend emptying the old ice in advance of a cocktail session, and using fresh ice when making your drinks. Ice made in the freezer can quickly absorb food odors, and grow “stale”, corrupting the flavor of your cocktails and even ruining the taste of expensive spirits, especially troubling as ice is usually the cheapest ingredient in your cocktail. There are other tools you can add as you expand to other drinks, but initially, a shaker and ice are all you’ll need.

 

 

 

Cocktail Hound

And a Bottle of Rum

08.29.2011

If you have a passing interest in either US history or rum, then this is an excellent read. The author walks through US history, from the pre-revolutionary days of the triangle trade, up through the Tiki Bar era to rum’s current resurgence. Each chapter begins with a cocktail from the period, and the book is well-researched and equally well-written.

If you thought of rum as limited to tropical islands, Cuba Libre’s, and assorted umbrella drinks, this book will not only change that perception, but teach you a bit of history and offer a new cocktail or interesting rum to sample from the thoughtful index of rums in the appendix.

Highly recommended.

Cocktail Hound

Flaming bitters

08.14.2011

While traveling for business, I dined at the Mockingbird Bistro in Houston after reading several recommendations on Chowhound. Dinner was excellent, and the bar staff surprisingly capable. The cocktail list was nothing spectacular, but when I asked my bartender if he had any specialties, he immediately (and without prompting) mentioned the Manhattan when I suggested I enjoyed Bourbon.Flaming Orange Peel

The bartender went to work, and I was pleasantly surprised to see a fresh cherry arrive in my cocktail glass rather than the usual candied maraschino. I thought we were taking a turn towards form over function when the bartender pulled out a lighter, and ignited the oils emitted from an orange peel before pouring the drink. I was pleasantly surprised by the slight smokiness imparted to the drink, and when inquiring further, the bartender explained he used to make his Manhattans with orange bitters, then switched to the burnt oils specifically to add the slightly bitter and smoky flavor.

While I’ll usually roll my eyes at “unconventional” preparations of the Manhattan, this was excellent, and enhanced with my favorite commonly available bourbon, Bulleit, which the bartender selected without any input from me.

I’ll certainly return to the Mockingbird next time I’m in Houston, and am looking forward to doing a side-by-side of a couple of cocktails with traditional, orange, and “flaming bitters”.

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